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I didn’t use a 100% solids material, I ended up using the Devran 224-v; as it has a high solids count but could be applied really thick as I wanted to make sure it was industrial grade but could also adhere to the old epoxy. In hindsight, I probably thought this one through to much but I didn’t want to risk a different brand product not being able to adhere to what I currently had down; I used another product from their series the first time I applied epoxy. I really just didn’t want to be left having to do this project a 3rd time.
You are on a really good track with what you have in your cart. I am assuming you have 1 or 2 lbs of color flakes in your cart? Make sure you know how to spread this prior to mixing the epoxy; you really have to pitch it up into the air so it floats down. If you can I would recommend only mixing what you need for the top coat, this way you can probably get away with doing more than one coat. You also might throw in some anti slip agent to add to the clear coat.
I am interested in seeing this project come to life in the near future. Let me know when you need the cleated shoe attachments.
So this weekend I wrapped up the flooring project by laying down the clear coat of urethane mixed with the anti-slip agent. This will give a good durable clear coat to protect the epoxy and color chips. It will also prevent dirt from surrounding the color chips and also the discoloration of the color chips that can happen over time.
I had to wait a week for the epoxy to gas off and vent out the room. The application of the urethane went easy. I was able to get 2 coats down 16 hours apart from each other and then let them cure. In comparison to the epoxy the urethane went down quickly and effortlessly. It was a 2 part water based urethane when mixed had the consistency and look of milk. Once applied the product did have a smell to it similar to super glue even thought it boasted no VOC’s, so I still had to vent the room all weekend but the smell went away in about 12 hours.
I like the looks of the Norkland 200. Even though there is no VOC’s it will still smell would be my guess. The only concerning thing I see is how short the pot life is, good prep work would easily help you get it all down before that time is up. It will be a race thought. How do you plan to put it down? I see that you can squeegee it which would cut down the application time quite a bit. Are you planning on putting it on any vertical surfaces, or just the floors? Are you using the color chips? This epoxy seems to be some of the best adhesion for the color chips.
I wish I has a better reason for using urethane other than it was cheaper and seemed to have most of the same chemical resistance and clean up as the epoxy. I knew I needed to use a top coat to seal in the color chips and prevent dirt from building up around the color chips. From the spec sheet of the urethane I used I knew it would roll super thin and I could get 2 coats out of one box. Also being clear I could mix in the clear anti-slip material for a slip proof product. The clear epoxy does seem like a bit more rugged product in comparison. I was mostly looking for a compatible product that could be laid thin and have the option of reapplying in the future.
Andrew Voss, one of the club members has grown neomexicanus in his hop yard. He has not been around much lately but I would wonder if he still has some sitting around. I know he has scaled back his operation recently but I would bet he still has stock.
From the experiments that came out of his crop I seem to remember really bright citrus flavors and a lemony finish. As these were whole hops that were also quite small we did have to used a lot of them to get these flavors out of them.
As for amarillo and el dorado, I have used this extensively over the last few years in my IPA’s and almost feel that there is no way to go wrong with these varieties for late additions in your IPA’s. They give some amazing fruity, citrus, and floral aromas that make for some amazing beer. I have found that other hops like, citra, simcoe and mosaic can be also nice compliments to these hops.
One of my all time favorite beers for summer has been my kentucky common. Four years ago Dean and I both seemed to get into brewing these around the same time. Mine was a little darker than deans but both ended up being really sweet and smooth, like a light beer that was dark. Really light in alcohol and easy to pour a few to enjoy on the back deck.
Really? I spent a whole 20 minutes trying to get them images correct.
Here is a link to the album:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7QfrkojoVvsttdV46I have found that using google over bbcode isn’t always perfect, notice the number of revisions I have on posts. Not sure if I am a retard and can’t get the URL’s incorrect placement, if brackets are acting odd, or if I am a total dumb fuck. Well, history will let us know.
So this weekend I finally got around to some serious work on the brewery, floors were started and should be completed here after this smelly mess cures and I can throw on the clear coat.
I did take extra effort to really grind down my semi-sloppy concrete work to make sure the transitions would be seamless and the lumps and bumps would be smoothed out. I diamond-ground down the concrete with an oscillating multitool. This prepped the small amount of surface that didn’t already have epoxy on it as well as make the concrete job not look so shitty.
The kit for the epoxy was only listed as having medium gray listed on the website, no color swatches to look at, so it was a crap shoot as far as getting it correct. I also had to rush order my color chips as I determined I didn’t need a G.I. Joe themed brewery. Lucky these came at 7 pm on Friday night so I was all set for a Saturday to install. I will say that custom ordering the color chips in a non-Rustoleum themed blend really helped make this project stand out as the color pallet was not so off the shelf look to it.
As I remember from before doing the epoxy is the material is tough to work with. It is thick and goopy and nothing like paint. It feels a lot more like trying to paint with creamy peanut butter as it is insanely viscous.
My 2-gallon treatment of “medium gray” was listed on the specification sheet as being able to cover 400 sq/ft. This is where my past told me to go ahead and use it all. I knew using a thicker application would still work as well as give me more of the material to go back with and hit some thin spots. I also used the spiked shoes this go-round, level up with this tool, I could now walk back onto my work; I had not used these before which lead to my really shitty covering of the paint chips the last time I did this.
I wish I would have mixed the 2 part solution for another 10 minutes prior to spreading because halfway through “painting” I was finding lumps that I had to go back and remix into to help smooth out. I am a thankful husband that my wife reminded me to get my respirator prior to opening the cans because this product stunk so bad. The product sheet did say don’t use in basements because of the VOC’s, fuck it, I have windows and a giant exhaust hood to use, nothing stopping me now; I still have not turned off the hood here 28 hours later.
The painting part of the install was quick as I just cut in all of the corners and walls as well as the drains. I was worried, as my dumb ass decided to use foam brushes for the cutting in. I should have used a bristle brush as it would have helped smooth it out a bit better; the material was so thick on the foam brush I might as well have used a scrap of cardboard. It really just came down to flow management and pushing and pulling the material around. I had used nearly half of the product once I was done cutting in, I was a bit concerned. I got the roller out and a stick and pulled all the paint away from the walls and already had half the room done. Then pour out the rest of the material in lines around the room and bring it all together, bam, I was done in about 45 min.
The most satisfying and my favorite part of the job was getting the paint chips on. I was leery of my ability to do this as I had fucked this up so bad before. It really turned into a game of pacing the room and spreading chicken feed, at least that is what was going on in my mind. Just really trying hard to get it even and consistent, but it was fun. I ended up using 4 lbs of the paint chips which they say would be the amount for roughly a 200 sq/ft room and my room with hallways is about 140 sq/ft, so I was a bit heavy. I am sure I will sweep up quite a bit of the material here once the stink goes away but I am glad that I went heavy, I love the look of it.
So the three hours or so that I spent prepping and knocking out the job went fast. With epoxy, you really have to be concerned with the life of the pot and how quick setup is, as a guy that has done this not once but twice I felt I had a little more liberty knowing it would happen as long as I took my time and was prepared for how the job would go. My shower at the end of the job was interesting as I kept finding more and more spots of epoxy on my knees or elbows not knowing how on earth they got there.
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What type of malt extract did you use? DME / LME? It has been years since I have made one of these types of beers, this might be the only way I get my Belgian beer made for July.
An Irish person could both simultaneously dodge a question and answer it may be coming to a close, as an international court ruling has demanded an explanation for the expression “sure you know yourself”.
For decades, people from all across Ireland have skillfully steered conversations to their liking by simply responding to any question or query with the catch-all phrase.
“Sure you know yourself”, originally coined by Michael Collins in 1921 when someone asked him how he got on in England, is both an answer to a question and a deflection; something no other phrase in the English language can lay claim to.I just find it to be a great phrase. It isn’t to far off from saying “Go fuck yourself.” when you don’t like what someone is asking you.
So I finished my electrical and got some new dimmer lights wired in. I have my epoxy paint ready to go until I realized the paint chips I had on hand looked like camo colors, I am not that guy, so I had to change that up so I ordered some different chips that would match the new brewery a bit better. I had to wait 28 days after finishing the concrete around the drain to do epoxy, so I did all the electrical and ceiling in that time. So this last week I sanded down all of the new concrete into the existing concrete so that it is smooth and started masking all of the walls, registers, and other shit so I can epoxy.
So, when a guy still finds himself thinking about brewing when he isn’t brewing, what shall he do? After putting the kid to bed each night; of course, find some other brewing related hobby to pour into till he gets some free dad time to do construction. Thus more beer labels/signs; not sure what to call these at the moment other than part of my brewery project.
I have continued on the journey of making new signage for my new brewery. I think of it as my brewery being represented through the process of design through the decades. I have been pouring over the images over at Shut Up About Barclay Perkins and have been downloading the images like crazy. I was looking for inspiration for logos I could adapt. I see these somehow fitting into my new brewery in some way I cannot imagine at the moment. But when a guy is fired up, don’t question, just let him do, it might all make sense in the end, or not, just ask my wife.
So here is where I have landed on my new inspiration and design work of late:
Well, hopefully, I get my paint chips here soon and can lay down some Epoxy. After that, I am waiting on putting in some FRP walls and finishing my plumbing through the walls. At the moment I only have 12 more days of school left so hoping this project gets on like donkey kong and can really have some life to it. Some of the fears I am anticipating are building my control box and wiring in some 60 amp service to the basement.
All in due time.
I am getting ready to Epoxy this week. This will be the second coat for most of my brewery because the footprint of the room changed. I purchased mine from Original Color Chips. There are 2 schools of thought on Epoxy as I see it. If you want a solid product that will last you should go with a solvent based product but you have a vapor that is really nasty and the pot life of the product when mixed is not long; the water based stuff is getting better but wont give you the durability especially if you are constantly moving things around on it. The solvent is also a bitch to clean up from because most of the tools/brushes you use on it will be trashed when it is over because of the nature of the product.
I made the decision to use the epoxy with color chips and then I have a clear second application to put over the top to keep the wet look and maintain a shine.
When I originally doing the epoxy in the room 3 years ago I really didn’t put down a thick coat and went more for stretching out the product, the problem I had was that some of the very thin areas chipped off a bit. This time I purchased more material than I would need and hope to get a nice thick application. This will make the color chips adhere better as well. The one thing I did do was grind down the concrete with a floor grinder I rented from Arvada Rent Alls. This really helped with the surface adhesion and gave me a more rough surface to work with. It also made a giant mess in my basement as far as dust goes, but doing this helped me not used the acid etch that others may recommend. I also added in the anti-slip agent to the pot when mixing and that was a smart move because the floor does have a nice grip to it when wet.
You are more then welcome to come over and check out how this ended up for me once it is installed. After doing it once and using it for years I really saw many of the flaws I made with my original installation, I am really hoping to up my game with this second go round and get it damn near perfect.
I am not sure I even answered your question rather just rant about my experience. I would definitely tell you do not buy the rustoleum product they sell at Home Depot, I have seen plent of installs with that product and I assure you it doesn’t hold up. When you are looking I would suggest looking for a product that has over 80% solids if not 100% solids, that will give it a better color and thickness that will hold up over time.
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